I personally would use a little jbweld. Be careful and use just a little bit and I promise that little plastic piece will never come off again... at least not at the same spot.
ImperialAtom wrote: ↑Mon Jun 08, 2020 10:12 pm
I personally would use a little jbweld. Be careful and use just a little bit and I promise that little plastic piece will never come off again... at least not at the same spot.
I have used JBWeld but the gray stuff. I see they have one for plastic, you are suggesting that one?
If they have one for plastic then it might work even better. The plastic version may be designed to have a little flex to it to avoid breaking the plastic it's sticking to - don't know. I'm used to the typical gray stuff too, and never had a problem with it sticking to anything. Just remember to use a little, you shouldn't need much, and wipe away any excess that squirts out to avoid it showing. If there's any gray showing, just paint it black and you'll never see it.
Just an update, got it repaired. I'm not painting it as it will not show.
Sorry for the bit of blurriness.
I have it all filed down. It fits on fine. Now for the install. Still working on an allen wrench to fit the ring that drives this dial. I did learn via the service manual, that the way to reach it is with the allen screw at the top.
The service manual mentions a gauge tool C-3844 for setting the accelerator linkage. Anyone know what the thickness of the gauge would be? I guess it would be winning the lottery to actually find this tool.
ImperialAtom wrote: ↑Thu Jun 18, 2020 8:39 pm
Repair looks good. Probably stronger than it was before.
Agree with you assumption - not likely to find a C-3844, but I'm sure there's a more practical tool that can do the same thing.
It is just a gauge. So the concern is what is the measurement of the gauge in order to set the accelerator rod connection properly. Then I can just use what ever comes up to that measurement.
